Fiber Selection for fabric and Garment Design
The talented fabric and garment designer who knows styling and technology can be a buffer between fiber and fabric producers and the consumer.
Many men engaged in fabric manufacture do their market research by asking their wives and friends just what they are looking for in fabric and garment. As an example, one executive of a large knitting mill combine recently revealed the results of his survey by simply stating that all a woman looks for when buying a garment is its look and fit, its ability to withstand “wash and wear”, and sometimes, an important branded name which is associated with excellence in some apparel category.
But there is much more to it than that. And these days, when we talk of fashion, we must also include the men. We no longer market men’s apparel, but men’s fashion. Can any one person grasp the subtle but important man-made fiber differences among fiber genera – the broad spectrum of blends and mixes possible, the classes of machines available to produce fabrics having differing appearance, function, economics? Does he know the intricate wet processing technologies, the needs and scientific production controls characteristic of today’s apparel manufacturer? Probably not. It takes a team to do this.
But the specialist of today who can come closest to reconciling this complex of possibilities in his work as a fabric and garment fashion designer, furnishing both what the consumer wants and what he can be influenced to want, is as important and rare today as the skilled mill fixer or mechanic. So proper utilization of available man-made fibers and natural fibers is the key that opens the first door to success in this field.
Plenty of help is available from the prime fiber producer.
UNIT 4
STANDARDIZATION
I. Language
Exercise 1. Study the vocabulary.
To agree –погоджуватись
Mandatory –обов'язковий
To stamp –штампувати, ставити печатку
To imply –мати на увазі, натякати
Trade union –профспілка, тред-юніон
Building code – закон про будівництво
To consider –розглядати, обмірковувати
Compliance –згода
Item –окремий предмет, пункт
Validation –затвердження
To handle people –керувати людьми
Interaction –взаємодія
Homogenization – однорідність, гомогенізація
Specific syntaxes –специфічні синтаксиси
De facto standard –фактичний, неофіційний стандарт
De jure standard –юридичний, офіційний стандарт
Dominant usage –домінуючий вжиток
Voluntary standard –необов’язковий стандарт
Score –причина, підстава, рахунок
Assessment –оцінювання
Supply chain management –управління поставками
Procurement – придбання
Reference –рекомендація, посилання
Open standard –відкритий стандарт
To restrict –обмежувати
Royalty-free –безоплатний
To preclude –усувати, запобігати
To implement –здійснювати
Internet Engineering Task Force –оперативний технічний підрозділ Інтернету
Explicitly –детально, точно
Specification –специфікація, перелік, уточнення
Exercise 2. Guess the meaning of the international words.
Standardization, process, technical, specifications, document, voluntary, to correct, criticism, mental, modernization, bureaucratization, formal, organization, theory, symbol.
Exercise 3. Give English equivalents for:
Взаємодія, обмежувати, безоплатний, рекомендація, офіційний стандарт, однорідність, згода, керувати людьми, придбання, необов’язковий стандарт, домінуючий вжиток, управління поставками, детально, оперативний технічний підрозділ Інтернету.
II. Reading and comprehension.
Exercise 4. Read the text A. Translate it with the dictionary.
Standardization
Standardization is the process of developing and agreeing upon technical standards. A standard is a document that establishes uniform engineering or technical specifications, criteria, methods, processes, or practices. Some standards are mandatory while others are voluntary. The existence of a published standard does not necessarily imply that it is useful or correct. Just because an item is stamped with a standard number does not, by itself, indicate that the item is fit for any particular use. The people who use the item or service (engineers, trade unions, etc) or specify it (building codes, government, industry, etc) have the responsibility to consider the available standards, specify the correct one, enforce compliance, and use the item correctly. Validation of suitability is necessary.
In the context of social criticism and social sciences, standardization often means the process of establishing standards of various kinds and improving efficiency to handle people, their interactions, cases, and so forth. Examples include formalization of judicial procedure in court, and establishing uniform criteria for diagnosing mental disease. Standardization in this sense is often discussed along with (or synonymously to) such large-scale social changes as modernization, bureaucratization, homogenization, and centralization of society.
In the context of business information exchanges, standardization refers to the process of developing data exchange standards for specific business processes using specific syntaxes. These standards are usually developed in voluntary consensus standards bodies such as the United Nations Center for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT), the World Wide Web Consortium W3C, and the Organization for the Advancement of Structured Information Standards (OASIS). Formal standards organizations, such as the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) or the American National Standards Institute, are independent of the manufacturers of the goods for which they publish standards. In general, each country or economy has a single recognized National Standards Body (NSB).
Standards can be:
- de facto standards which means they are followed by informal convention or dominant usage;
- de jure standards which are part of legally binding contracts, laws or regulations;
- voluntary standards which are published and available for people to consider for use.
The uses of standards may be also found:
- In statistics, standardization refers to conversion to standard scores.
- In test theory, standardization refers to measurements or assessments conducted under exact, specified, and repeatable conditions.
- In supply chain management, standardization refers to approaches for increasing commonality of part, process, product or procurement.
Note: there are at least four levels of standardization: compatibility, interchangeability, commonality and reference. These standardization processes create compatibility, similarity, measurement and symbol standards.
Exercise 5. Find in the text the following word-combinations and translate them to your native language:
The process of developing and agreeing, technical specifications, mandatory, published standard, to enforce compliance, improving efficiency to handle people, judicial procedure, Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business, International Organization for Standardization, National Standards Institute, informal convention, legally binding contracts, voluntary standards, supply chain management, compatibility.