Assignment. Texts 6-10 are dedicated to Greek Islands. Read the text about Cretan vendettas and explain why the word ‘vendetta’ is not singled out in the body of the text
Cretans might be famously welcoming to strangers, but they are notorious throughout Greece for murderous family vendettas that have lasted for generations and caused hundreds of Cretans to flee the island.
Particularly prevalent among the harsh mountain people of Sfakia, where whole villages have been decimated due to vendettas, the disputes can start over the theft of sheep, an errant bullet at a wedding or anything deemed an insult to family honour. The insult is avenged with a murder, which must be avenged with another murder... and so the blood feud continues. Modernity has somewhat stemmed the carnage but there are still occasional mysterious cases where police can find no witnesses or people willing to come forward with information about a killing, including an incident in 2007 where an army conscript was shot in a barracks in Rethymno in front of his family and other witnesses but no one would identify the assailant. Avengers have also been known to pursue their targets across Greece and occasionally across the globe (as portrayed in the movie Beware of Greeks Bearing Guns).
Text 7. EASTER
Assignment. Read the text about Greek Easter and compare with the Russian way of celebrating Easter.
Easter is the most important festival in the Greek Orthodox religion. Emphasis is placed on the Resurrection rather than on the Crucifixion, so it is a joyous occasion. The festival commences on the evening of Good Friday with the perifora epitavios, when a shrouded bier (representing Christ’s funeral bier) is carried through the streets to the local church. This moving candle lit procession can be seen in towns and villages throughout the country. From a spectator’s viewpoint, the most impressive of these processions climbs Lykavittos Hill in Athens to the Chapel of Agios Georgos. The Resurrection Mass starts at 11 pm on Saturday night. At midnight, packed churches are plunged into darkness to symbolise Christ’s passing through the underworld. The ceremony of the lighting of candles which follows is the most significant moment in the Orthodox year, for it symbolises the Resurrection. Its poignancy and beauty are spellbinding. If you are in Greece at Easter you should endeavour to attend this ceremony, which ends with fireworks and a candle lit processions through the streets. The Lenten fast ends on Easter Sunday with the cracking of red-dyed Easter eggs and an outdoor feast of roast lamb followed by Greek dancing. The day’s greeting is Hristos anesti (‘Christ is risen’), to which the reply is Alithos anesti (‘Truly He is risen’). On both Palm Sunday (the Sunday before Easter) and Easter Sunday, St Spyridon (the mummified patron saint of Corfu) is taken out for an airing and joyously paraded through the town. He is paraded again in Corfu town on 11 August.
Texts 8. HOW AND WHERE THE GREEK EAT
Assignment. Read the text about Greek food and drinks, paying special attention to the peculiarities of Greek cuisine which require explanation of numerous exotic spices, products, technologies.
Greek food does not enjoy a reputation as one of the world’s great cuisines. Maybe that’s because many travellers have experienced Greek cooking only in tourist resorts. The old joke about the Greek woman who, on summer days, shouted to her husband ‘Come and eat your lunch before it gets hot’ is based on truth.
Until recently, food was invariably served lukewarm - which is how Greeks prefer it. If your meal is not hot, ask that it be served zesto, or order grills, which have to be cooked to order. Greeks are fussy about fresh ingredients, and frozen food is rare.
Greeks eat out regularly, regardless of socioeconomic status. Enjoying life is paramount to Greeks and a large part of this enjoyment comes from eating and drinking with friends.
By law, every eating establishment must display a written menu including prices. Bread will automatically be put on your table and usually costs between 100 dr and 200 dr, depending on the restaurant’s category.
Tavernas.Traditionally, the taverna is a basic eating place with a rough-and-ready ambience, although some are more upmarket, rapticularly in Athens, and resorts and big towns. All tavernas have a menu, often displayed in the window or on the door, but it’s usually not a good guide as to what’s actually available on the day. You’ll be told about the daily specials - or ushered into the kitchen to peer into the pots and point to what you want. This is not merely a privilege for tourists; Greeks also do it because they want to see the taverna’s version of the dishes on offer. Some tavernas don’t open until 8 pm, and then stay open until the early hours. Some are closed on Sunday.
Psistaria.These places specialise in spit roasts and charcoal-grilled food - usually lamb, pork or chicken.
Restaurants.A restaurant (estiatorio) is normally more sophisticated than a taverna or psistaria - damask tablecloths, smartly attired waiters and printed menus at each table with an English translation. Ready-made food is usually displayed in a bain-marie and there may also be a charcoal grill.
Ouzeria.An ouzeri serves ouzo. Greeks believe it is essential to eat when drinking alcohol so, in traditional establishments, your drink will come with a small plate of titbits or mezedes (appetisers) - perhaps olives, a slice of feta and some pickled octopus. Ouzeria are becoming trendy and many now offer menus with both appetisers and main courses.
Calaktopoleia.A galaktopoleio (literally ‘milk shop’) sells dairy produce including milk, butter, yogurt, rice pudding, cornflour pudding, custard, eggs, honey and bread. It may also sell home-made ice cream. Look for the sign ‘pagoto politiko’ displayed outside. Most have seating and serve coffee and tea. They are inexpensive for breakfast and usually open from very early in the morning until evening.
Zaharoplasteia.A zaharoplasteio (patisserie) sells cakes (both traditional and western), chocolates, biscuits, sweets, coffee, soft drinks and, possibly, bottled alcoholic drinks. They usually have some seating.
Kafeneia.Kafeneia are often regarded by foreigners as the last bastion of male chauvinism in Europe. With bare light bulbs, nicotine-stained walls, smoke-laden air, rickety wooden tables and raffia chairs, they are frequented by middle-aged and elderly Greek men in cloth caps who while away their time fiddling with worry beads, playing cards or backgammon, or engaged in heated political discussion.
It was once unheard of for women to enter a kafeneia but in large cities this situation is changing.
In rural areas, Greek women are rarely seen inside kafeneia. When a female traveller enters one, she is inevitably treated courteously and with friendship if she manages a few Greek words of greeting. If you feel inhibited about going into a kafeneio, opt for outside seating. You’ll feel less intrusive.
Kafeneia originally only served Greek coffee but now, most also serve soft drinks, Nescafe and beer. They are generally fairly cheap, with Greek coffee costing about 150 dr and Nescafe with milk 250 dr or less. Most kafeneia are open all day every day, but some close during siesta time (roughly from 3 to 5 pm).
Meals.Most Greeks have Greek coffee and perhaps a cake or pastry for breakfast. Budget hotels and pensions offering breakfast generally provide it continental-style (rolls or bread with jam, and tea or coffee), while more upmarket hotels serve breakfast buffets (western and continental-style). Otherwise, restaurants and galaktopoleia serve bread with butter, jam or honey; eggs; and the budget travellers’ favourite, yogurt (yiaourti) with honey. In tourist areas, many menus offer an ‘English’ breakfast - which means bacon and eggs.
This is eaten late - between 1 and 3 pm - and may be either a snack or a complete meal. The main meal can be lunch or dinner - or both. Greeks enjoy eating and often have two large meals a day.
Greeks also eat dinner late. Many people don’t start to think about food until about 9 pm, which is why some restaurants don’t bother to open their doors until after 8 pm. In tourist areas dinner is often served earlier.
A full dinner in Greece begins with appetisers and/or soup, followed by a main course of either ready-made food, grilled meat, or fish. Only very posh restaurants or those pandering to tourists include western-style desserts on the menu. Greeks usually eat cakes separately in a galaktopoleio or zaharoplasteio.
Texts 9. GREEK DISHES FOR YOUR TABLE